With all the rage today, Gothic jewelry is actually not something new. In fact, it has a long and rich history, spanning from the medieval period, through the Victorian era, and to the present day. Throughout its millennium-long transformation, it has gained and perfected its many distinctive features. What they are and what Gothic style jewelry really is, you can find out from this blog.
Medieval Gothic Jewelry: Faith and Art
The term ‘Gothic’ appeared presumably in the 15th-17th century in the works of Italian Renaissance writers, who considered the cultural heritage of the previous era to be devoid of grace and even barbaric. They compared it to the cruel and brutal Goth tribes raging in Europe during the Roman Empire. They criticized the artistic style of their predecessors for excessive pretentiousness, embellishment for the sake of embellishment, and lack of proportion.
But what is this style really about?
The first evidence of the Gothic style dates back to the 11th century. Initially, it applied exclusively to the field of religious architecture. Cathedrals erected in the Medieval times (up until the 16th century) have many distinguishing features such as intricate details, pointed arches, stained glass windows, and soaring spires. Over time, these characteristic features began to appear in applied art, specifically in jewelry.
For instance, stained glass windows, which created colorful patterns of light inside the cathedrals, became inspirations for vibrant pieces of jewelry. Medieval jewelers used colorful materials, such as enamel, gemstones, pearls, and glass, to create a similar effect. For example, the Dunstable Swan Jewel, a brooch in the shape of a swan, was made of gold, enamel, and pearls, and had a cabochon ruby for the eyes. The go-to metal of that era was gold, and gems, due to the lack of modern cutting techniques, were mostly fashioned into cabochons (round, polished, and facete-less).
Upon inspection of any Medieval church, you will immediately notice an (over)abundance of details: pointed arches, ribbed vaults, flying buttresses, traceries, etc., all generously and lavishly decorated. Medieval Gothic jewelry carefully copies these forms and fuss through filigree, granulation, niello, cloisonné, repoussé, etc.
One of the most influential motifs in medieval Gothic architecture was the Christian faith. Unsurprisingly, early Gothic jewelry has gone the same path, often depicting religious scenes, saints, angels, and the crucifixion. As for specific symbols, crosses, rosaries, relics, and Holy Trinity, were ubiquitous during this era.
Although jewelry was common for that time and worn by men and women alike, it was mostly reserved for clergy and the nobility. Those with money and power used it to display their devotion and status. Besides the forms of jewelry widespread today (necklaces, brooches, rings, etc.), Medieval times offered pieces that combined decorative and utilitarian functions. These are buckles, badges, fibulae and later buttons, points for lace ends, hair pins, etc. Needless to say, all of them were embellished according to the best traditions of the era using precious metals, gems, enamel, pearls, etc.
Victorian Gothic Jewelry: Romance and Mourning
With the advent of the Renaissance, Gothic was forgotten, but it did not sink into oblivion. Already in the 19th century, during the reign of Queen Victoria (1837 to 1901), it experienced a revival that saw a renewed interest and appreciation for the Gothic style and its elements.
The major influences of the Victorian period were Romanticism, the Industrial Revolution, as well as the fascination with death and mourning. The queen herself became the fashion icon in the eyes of her subjects, especially after the death of her beloved husband, Prince Consort Albert, in 1861. From then until her death, the empress did not stop grieving, and her mourning outfit became a model for imitation and copying.
These gloomy sentiments found a reflection in jewelry. Colorful gems of the Medieval era gave way to onyx, jet, black diamonds and pearls, as well as dark enamel, silver with patina, and coral.
Hair woven into jewelry was also a highlight of that era. People crafted chains and bracelets from the hair of their loved ones or incorporated their locks into brooches and medallions. These decorations often served as memorials for the dead. Again, Queen Victoria wore a brooch with Prince Albert’s hair after his demise.
Following the themes of grieving and mourning, Victorian Gothic jewelry started offering motifs related to death, namely skulls, skeletons, coffins, bats, spiders, snakes, daggers, etc. They were especially common in Memento Mori jewelry. While many wanted to show their empathy for the late Prince and his grieving spouse, it was the way for others to commemorate their loved ones. Mourning Gothic rings became especially popular as tokens of remembrance and even romance, as they proved how strong love can be even in the face of death. Besides the gloomy images of death, such pieces depicted its somewhat romantic side with symbols such as angels, clouds, wings, loved ones’ initials, and many others.
It was mostly women who flaunted these body ornaments as a way of displaying their emotions, sentiments, and social status. Besides, they allowed women to express their newfound independence and freedom.
Late 20th Century Gothic Jewelry: Rebellion and Individualism
The late 1970s gave birth to a brooding subculture, which, although drew inspiration from Gothic literary genres of the 18th and 19th centuries, was something entirely new. Originating out of the post-punk music scene in the UK, it flourished on the themes of rebellion, individualism, and anti-establishment. Eventually, this subculture came to be known as Goth. With their dark, morose aesthetic as well as an interest in the afterlife and supernatural, Goths contrasted with the cheerful mainstream pop culture of that time.
The Gothic revival jewelry scene was heavily inspired by Victorian mourning jewelry. Black enameled silver, jet stones, and woven hair mementos carried somber symbolism in the late 1800s. Likewise, modern Goth jewelry employs color, texture, and imagery to capture the gloomy romanticism of the subculture. Features like intricate filigree and floral designs offer a bridge to the past while still maintaining an edge.
Mirroring the dark themes of Gothic literature, jewelry of this era overwhelmingly utilizes silver rather than gold. At the same time, you don’t have to stick to precious metals even though they offer a more luxe take. There are exciting pieces made of affordable materials: rubber, leather, plastics, stainless steel, etc. No matter which material you go with, the shapes of 20th-century Gothic are rather on the ominous side: bats, skulls, and coffins, as well as religious imagery such as crosses and rosaries.
Simultaneously, the modern Gothic aesthetic exhibits interest in the themes of the afterlife and occult sciences. Oftentimes, it turns to the legacy of ancient world cultures as long as their interest align. For example, it borrowed the Ankh symbol from ancient Egyptian mythology where it symbolized eternal life.
Pentagram, now strongly associated with the mystical and occult, was ubiquitous millennia ago, from Mesopotamia to Japan, and simply represented the five elements. Apart from symbols, pieces of Neo-Gothic jewelry fascinate with gems, which are deeply colored, favoring black, blood red, or purple hues.
Overall, the Goth community romanticizes death and embraces ominous imagery. Their distinctive look conveys belonging to the group that favors darkness over light. And this obsession with all things macabre continues even now, over forty years since its genesis.
Modern Gothic Jewelry Goes Mainstream
Gothic aesthetic in the 21st century gets to balance avant-garde edginess with romantic vintage charm. While still being deemed as a counter-culture, it has stepped into the limelight and catwalks. Nowadays, every self-respecting fashion designer has, at some point, flirted with Gothic, even such powerhouses as Gucci, Gaultier, and Yves Saint Laurent.
Modern Gothic adornments as though liberate their wearers from societal constraints. Daring symbolic motifs, gleaming materials, and, of course, bold contrasts help to do so. Serpents, ravens, daggers, and blood-red gemstones evoke intensity. They are the artsy representations of forbidden temptations, primal passion, and playing with danger. At the same time, masterful metalwork and radiant crystals suggest latent power.
When it comes to contrasts, they have always been the key to Gothic’s allure. Light and dark elements, the symbols of life and death, precious gems glittering in blackened settings, gold rosaries swinging over torn fishnets – these and others are beautiful representations of the whole spectrum of human experience.
With these motifs and artistic techniques, every fashionista has a chance to define themselves as the source of life, love, and meaning. Gothic jewelry becomes a means of expressing independence and a lens focusing attention on one’s self-possession.
Types of Modern Gothic Jewelry
Having such a huge cultural background spanning across centuries and world cultures, Gothic didn’t stand a chance to end up homogeneous. Indeed, today it offers many variations, which not only complement but often contrast or even conflict with each other.
Antiquity Gothic
For example, Antiquity Gothic looks back at the styles of certain historical epochs (most often the Victorian era). At its core, it is a romantic style that gives preference to refined lines, opulence, and intricate details. Although modern, it has more in common with the fashion of the 19th century rather than the Gothic subculture. Antique Gothic jewelry is rather artistic than gloomy, with such dominating features as lace, filigree, gemstones, intricate metalwork, dainty details, etc.
Corporate Goth
This style is inherent to goths working in offices and forced to adhere to a dress code. More often than not, their jewelry is quite restrained, not exactly eye-catching in either shape or size. Decorative elements often consist of leather inserts, straps, rivets, as well as accessories made of silver or stainless steel. The ornaments are mostly geometric or floral, sometimes enhanced with enamel or inlay.
Tribal Goth
Connoisseurs of this style gravitate towards a modern primitive aesthetic. They use piercing (nose rings, pierced lips, nipples, etc.) and an abundance of body ornaments, oftentimes layered and stacked. Their jewelry tends to combine various materials (metal, rock, leather, bones, etc.), colors, and textures, often large forms and tribal patterns reminiscent of the works of art of primitive societies.
CyberGoth and Darkwave
This is a cyberpunk aesthetic in the spirit of William Gibson. This style loves to flash “technogenic” twists in the form of wires, gears, as well as glowing or interactive elements. Overall, it has a lot in common with cyberpunk.
GlitterGoth and FairyGoth
This branch of Gothic is known for its kitschy mix of styles and colors. Instead of being dark and gloomy, it chooses sparkle, glow, and fun. Imagine a pentagram studded with rhinestones - this is the perfect visualization of GlitterGoth.
GypsyGoth and HippieGoth
This style is popular with Goths who are pagans and followers of Wicca. Wearing baggy clothes, complex designs, and fabrics of vibrant colors, these goths complement them with a multitude of different ornaments, amulets, charms, and so on. These ornamentations are often handmade, showing a connection with nature (through symbols such as, for example, the Tree of Life or pagan runes), and with a predominance of bold colors on a white or black background.
Androgyn Goth
Jewelry in this style is for men, women, and everyone in between. Many pieces are rather feminine, yet you cannot definitely pinpoint, which sex they are intended to. For this reason, the androgynous style is rather minimalistic, with a bias towards geometric shapes. Such jewelry tends to feature adjustable elements to suit bodies of every shape and size.
Fetish Goth
Fetish Gothic gives preference to modern materials such as latex, vinyl, artificial leather (sometimes genuine leather), mesh, and shiny metals. Necklaces (mostly chokers) and bracelets (bangles) tightly snuggle the body while displaying spikes, studs, or chains. The color scheme is rather sparse and monotonous. All in all, it corresponds to the aesthetics of visitors to fetish clubs, just with a gothic flair.
Punk Goth, Post-Punk, Dark Punks
This sub-style is nostalgic for the good old 1970s and 1980s, when the modern Gothic style just came onto the scene. Punk enthusiasts flaunt safety pins, leather, heavy chains, skulls, and spikes. However, what sets them apart from true punks is a more stylish and gloomy vibe, and, of course, symbols inherent to Gothic.
Western Goth
It is hard to trace a connection between Western and Gothic aesthetics, yet it exists. Just google Fields of the Nephilim and you will see what this style is all about. In short, this is a marriage of Western and Gothic flairs. Suspenders decorated with skulls, top hats with elaborate trim, leather bracelets and casually draped leather necklaces with round pendants. In general, this style benefits from a multitude of leather elements, mostly artificially aged, in brownish tones paying homage to the cowboy era.
Vampire Goth
Stylistically, this style is similar to the lofty and romantic Antiquity Goth. However, here vampire-like symbols run the show - bats, coffins, drops of blood, fangs, blood-filled eyes, and so on.
Wrapping Up
Gothic jewelry has been evolving through different historical periods and cultural influences. While reflecting the dark, mysterious, and sometimes macabre aspects of Gothic culture, it also serves as a means of personal expression. Whether you prefer the medieval, Victorian, late 20th century, or modern styles, there is a necklace, bracelet, or ring that ideally suits your personality.